Merry Second Christmas!

Christmas in Russia is celebrated on the evening of December 6. It's not actually a huge holiday here, due to the fact that it is strictly religious and most people these days are secular. However, many familiar Christmas traditions seem evident out in the streets - lights, holiday markets, the Russian version of Santa, etc. - though these are all associated with New Year’s instead. Christmas music in English seems relatively popular, though unfortunately our hotel’s holiday playlist consists of three different versions of Last Christmas, a song by Justin Bieber, and little else.

Many of us decided to go to Russian Orthodox Christmas services on the 6th, to see what it was like. At first we tried to go to the famous Cathedral of Christ the Savior, as Marc had suggested, but we found it surrounded by fences and police who wouldn't let anyone through. Rumor has it that Putin was there for services, which would explain the extremely heightened security.

We didn't let that stop us from finding somewhere else to go. Our newfound knowledge of the Moscow metro system allowed us to navigate to a church we’d seen earlier near the Red Square, the name of which I am unfortunately unaware. We covered our heads with our scarves (a gesture required of women in any church here) and entered, to find ourselves in a crowded narrow hallway filled with candles. A few doorways led into the main chapel, from which the sounds of low chanting and the rich smell of incense emanated. There are no pews in churches like this, so the attendees must stand crowded together. Services are typically several hours long, but there is no expectation to stay from beginning to end. Rather, like us, most people come and go as they please.

We slowly made our way through the crowd and into the chapel, a rather smallish room with a high ceiling and lavishly decorated walls filled with images of various important religious figures. Several Orthodox priests in white robes stood at the altar at the front of the room holding candles, while a chorus composed of Russians in everyday clothing stood to the side, chiming in occasionally to intensify the meditative chanting by the head priest. At one point, an ornate Bible was ceremoniously brought out and, and on occasion another priest would swing an incense burner. All of this contributed to a warm and solemn atmosphere of contemplation and comfort, and those around us seemed quite absorbed in the ritual. I would have liked the chance to look around the chapel more, but the crowded space and the solemnity of the occasion discouraged closer inspection.

I know little to nothing about Russian Orthodox traditions and beliefs, so I won't try to interpret what any part of the service was meant to symbolize. I imagine some of the chanting was probably about Jesus, seeing as his birth is the reason for Christmas, but my Russian isn't good enough to be able to confirm that guess. Regardless, it was still a cool experience, and I’m very glad I went.